Northern Spain is a good place to discover that a short distance on a map can deserve most of a day. The Picos de Europa rise through a landscape of limestone, steep valleys and small settlements. They reward an itinerary with a little room in it.
The national park spans Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla y León. Turismo Asturias describes three distinct massifs, rather than one simple destination. Choosing which side to explore matters more than collecting every famous name.
Start with a base
For a first visit, I would choose one area and stay several nights. On the Asturian side, Cangas de Onís gives a useful starting point for the Covadonga area. On the Cantabrian side, the Liébana valley puts Fuente Dé on the list of possibilities.
The point is to avoid repacking every morning. A settled base lets you change a walking day into a village day when the weather asks for it, without feeling that the trip has gone wrong.
Choose your kind of day
The Spanish national-parks guide identifies the Cares trail, the Covadonga lakes and Fuente Dé among the best-known places to explore. They are different experiences, and none needs to become a compulsory stop.
A walk beside dramatic rock walls, a day around the lakes, or a cable-car outing can each be the centre of a day. Add time to get there, eat and stop looking at the clock. Check official transport, access and trail information close to your visit; a photograph tells you very little about current conditions.
Let the weather have a vote
Mountain plans need flexibility. Pick routes that match your experience, carry appropriate clothing and navigation, and turn around when conditions call for it. A lower route or an unhurried lunch is a perfectly respectable alternative to a summit.
The trip I would plan has one substantial outing, one gentler day and at least one deliberate gap. The mountains provide enough drama. The schedule can afford to be quiet.
Photo: Dave Evans / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 Spain. April 2015; reduced-resolution reproduction.
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